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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.